Tuesday, January 19, 2010


Ordering and Fabrication

 (Last revised 8-7-2014)

In this section I will document what parts needed to be ordered, configuration options, and costs.

Configuration Options
   High Drive vs. Low Drive.
   Voltage options:  Battery, Alternator Field, System.
   Optional remote (Not needed)
   Optional RTC.
   Expansion Cards


Electronic Parts
  Mouser, why I used them.
  TLE5206-2 vs. TLE5205-2
  Arduino boot loader in the Amtel CPU

Extra Parts

To complete the instillation, you will need some extra things.  Parts to configure flash your controller and LCD boards, throttle motors, temperature problems, Amp shunts..  Under the BOM tab look in the .xls file for an 'extras', it gives more detail then I am adding here - but for a quick over on some of the parts you will need: 

Temperature Probes:  Search Ebay for "DS18B20 Waterproof" and a while pile will come up that look like the photo to the right.  I used these and modified them (click HERE) to add a tab.  At one time I noted some probes that had tabs on them already, perhaps just search for "DS18B20 probe"?  All you want to make sure if it has three wires - the 3rd extra 'power' wire.

Throttle motor:  this is used to control the governor lever, again I turned to Ebay.  Searching for "94 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 INTEGRA CRUISE CONTROL MOTOR" will get you what I used.  I am sure other ones will work - you just want to make sure it has a clutch, and a built in limit switch that will stop the throttle motor when it hits its max / min extension.  Here how the wiring worked for me:
    Black:   Clutch Ground   – Connect to Ground.
    White:   Clutch Enable   – Connect to Clutch port on controller
    Brown:  Motor Decel       – Connect to Throttle Down port on controller
    Blue:     Motor Accel      – Connect to Throttle Up port on controller

 EGT Probe:  Ebay (what else?)  You want a 'K' type probe, and no need to get one costing $100.  Just look around.  The photo on the left is like the one I used, and it costs under $15.

I installed my EGT probe by drilling and taping the 3/4" schedule 40 pipe I used for the hot exhaust.  If you have thin wall tube you will need some type of external clamp, or get take it to an exhaust shop and have a nipple welded on.

Heat Sink:  There is not too much power dissipated by the controller and FETs.  Perhaps the largest one will be the BDX53C per-regulator when use din a 24v deployment.  I will do some heat calculations later, but I suspect a simple length of U channel aluminum will work fine.  I picked up somewhere a length of finned heat-sink that is 1.5" tall and it seems to work fine.

Click for larger.  Note pin order!
USB <--> TTL Adapter:  You will need one of these to upload a sketch to the controller and LCD remote.  It is also used to capture diagnostic data when DEBUG mode is enabled.  Starting with v0.3.x, I standardized on this 6-pin connector (as shown to right)  that has the needed DTR as well as both 3.3v and 5v supplies - very handy for bench testing w/o needing to locate a 12v power supply.  Look for something like what is shown and make sure the pin orders are as shown in this photo!  You can use other adapters (heck, can even use an Arduino UNO with the CPU pulled out of its socket), but these things are cheap and have worked well for me.  Order 10x at a time and they are under $2 each.  Perhaps $3 in one qty.  Search (where else) Ebay for "CP2102 USB 2.0 to TTL UART Module 6Pin Serial Converter STC Replace FT232" seems to bring up the correct ones.   Pay special attention to the DTR pin, it must be DTR, NOT 'reset'.

If you have v0.1.x or v0.2.x, follow these instructions on how to modify a different USB adapter for direct plug-in use. http://smartdcgenerator.blogspot.com/2013/01/adapting-external-usb-to-serial.html

  CAT-5 cable  (Local)
  Remote Panel   $85 (Front Panel Express)


  PCB:  $40
  Controller BOM:  $65-70, depending on configuration and options.
  Remote BOM:     $25-35, depending on options.


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